A Barber's Guide to Men's Hair Products
Pomade, clay, cream, paste, powder, wax, gel, and sea salt spray: how do you know which one you really need?
When you walk into a good shop or search on Amazon, you'll see dozens of men's hair products in categories that most guys can't tell apart. Pomade, clay, cream, paste, powder, wax - they all promise "hold" and "styling." Some are shiny, some are matte, and prices are all over the place. But nobody really explains what any of it means.
Here’s a barber’s guide to what each product is, what it does for your hair, and how to choose the one that matches the look you want.
The Two Things That Matter
Every hair product is defined by two things: hold and finish.
Hold is how much the product keeps your hair in place. Light hold means your hair moves throughout the day and looks natural. Strong hold means your hair stays exactly where you put it, even in wind. Most products fall somewhere in between.
Finish is how the product looks in your hair. Matte finish looks like your hair, only better. Shiny finish looks polished and slick. Some products sit in between with a natural, low-shine finish.
Every product below fits somewhere on these two scales. That’s the basic idea. Once you know what kind of hold and finish you want, picking a product becomes much easier.
Layrite products on the shelves at The Bus Stop Barbershop.
Pomade
Pomade is the classic product for slicked-back hair. It’s been used for over a hundred years and is still the top choice for polished, retro, or side-part styles.
Hold: Medium to strong, depending on the specific pomade.
Finish: Shiny by default. Some pomades are labeled "low shine" or "matte pomade," but the traditional finish is glossy.
Best for: Straight or wavy hair, medium length on top, styles that need to look sharp and stay in place. Classic side parts, pompadours, slick-backs.
Two important sub-categories:
Water-based pomade washes out easily with water and is now the standard. It’s cleaner, easier to use, and won’t leave residue on your pillow. Most pomades you find at a barber shop today are water-based.
Oil-based pomade is the traditional type, made with petroleum jelly, waxes, and oils. It gives extreme hold and high shine, but it’s famously hard to wash out. Some people like it for the vintage feel, but most find it too much hassle.
Common mistake: Using too much. Pomade is one of the most concentrated products on this list. A dime-size amount is enough for most guys, even those with thick hair.
Clay
Clay is the product most modern barbers use when someone wants texture and a natural look with real hold. It’s become the go-to styling product for men in the last decade, and for good reason.
Hold: Medium to strong.
Finish: Matte. This is the key difference from pomade.
Best for: Almost every modern short-to-medium men's style. Textured tops, messy quiffs, casual crops, natural side parts. Works with straight, wavy, and thick hair. Also works well with fine hair because clay adds volume and grip without weighing hair down.
Why does clay work so well? It has ingredients like bentonite or kaolin that give your hair grip and texture. Clay doesn’t just hold your hair in place; it changes how your hair feels, making it easier to shape and style. That’s why clay is often what barbers use when someone says, "I want my hair to look like it does when you cut it."
Common mistake: Applying to wet hair. Clay works best on hair that's damp to dry, not soaking wet. Towel-dry first, then apply.
Cream
Cream is a lighter and easier option compared to clay and pomade. It has a softer hold, is more forgiving, and is great for anyone who doesn’t want to spend much time thinking about hair products.
Hold: Light to medium.
Finish: Natural or low-shine.
Best for: Longer hair on top, softer styles, everyday looks that don't need to survive a windstorm. Also good for anyone growing their hair out because it doesn't fight the length.
Why do people choose cream? It’s the “just a little bit of product” choice. If you want your hair to behave but not look or feel styled, cream is the way to go.
Common mistake: Expecting it to hold a dramatic style. Cream isn't going to keep a pompadour standing all day. It's meant for natural looks.
Paste (Texture Paste)
Paste is in between clay and cream. It gives medium hold, a natural finish, and has a texture that spreads more easily than clay but is more structured than cream.
Hold: Medium.
Finish: Matte to natural.
Best for: Textured styles, medium-length hair, guys who want the modern casual look without the strong hold of clay. Also a good option for fine hair because paste adds definition without weight.
How is paste different from clay? Paste is softer and easier to work through your hair. It gives you more time to shape your style before it sets, while clay grips harder and sets faster. If you like to take your time styling, paste is a better choice.
Common mistake: Confusing paste with pomade. They have similar consistency in the tub but very different finishes. Read the label.
Powder (Texture Powder / Volumizing Powder)
Powder is the newest type of product here and can be very useful for certain hair types. It comes in a small bottle, and you sprinkle or shake it onto dry hair to instantly add volume and grip.
Hold: Light to medium, depending on how much you use.
Finish: Completely matte. In fact, powder can absorb existing oil in your hair and make it look drier than it started.
Best for: Fine or thin hair that needs volume. Also great for second-day hair when your hair is looking flat but you don't want to restyle from scratch.
How do you use it? Just use a tiny amount at the roots. Sprinkle it on, rub it in with your fingertips, and then style your hair. The powder blends in as you work it through.
Common mistake: Using too much and ending up with visible white residue. Start with less than you think you need.
Wax
Wax is a strong-hold product with a bit of shine. It’s somewhere between pomade and clay in how it works.
Hold: Strong.
Finish: Low shine to natural.
Best for: Short, structured styles that need to hold up all day. Detailed spiky looks. Also good for guys with coarse or thick hair that fights back against softer products.
How is wax different from pomade? Wax has less shine and doesn’t wash out as easily as water-based pomade. These days, it’s more of a specialty product since clay and paste now do most of what wax used to.
Common mistake: Buying wax when you actually wanted clay. Read the finish description carefully.
Gel
Most guys have used gel at some point, but many eventually stop. Gel still has its uses, but not as many as the marketing claims.
Hold: Very strong. Gel is often the strongest hold you can get in a consumer product.
Finish: Shiny and stiff. Traditional gels create a wet-look, hard-to-the-touch finish.
Best for: Situations where you need your hair to not move for hours. Formal events, athletic activities in windy conditions, a stage performance. Also good for slicked-back styles when you want maximum shine.
Why don’t people use gel as much anymore? Most modern styles need movement and texture, which gel can’t provide. Plus, gel often flakes and cracks as it dries, which many remember from when they were younger.
Common mistake: Using it as an everyday styling product. Gel is best reserved for occasions when strong hold matters more than a natural look.
Sea Salt Spray
Sea salt spray isn’t meant to hold your hair in place. Instead, it’s a texturizer that adds beachy volume and a matte grip to wet or damp hair.
Hold: None. Or almost none. Salt spray doesn't hold your hair in place; it changes the texture of your hair.
Finish: Matte and textured.
Best for: Wavy or slightly curly hair when you want an effortless look. It’s also helpful as a first step before using another product, since salt spray adds grip that clay or paste can hold onto.
How to use it: Spray onto damp hair, scrunch or tousle with your fingers, then air dry or blow dry. Follow with another styling product if you want more control.
Common mistake: Using salt spray on straight hair and expecting it to create waves. Salt spray only enhances the texture you already have; it won’t create waves if your hair is straight.
Which One Should You Use?
The truth is, it depends on your hair type and the look you want. But here’s a simple way to get started.
If you have straight or wavy hair and want a classic, polished look: Pomade (water-based).
If you have short-to-medium hair and want a modern textured look: Clay.
If you have longer hair and want a soft, natural look: Cream.
If you want somewhere between clay and cream: Paste.
If you have fine or thin hair and need volume: Powder.
If you have coarse hair and need strong hold: Wax or clay.
If you need extreme hold for an occasion: Gel.
If you have wavy hair and want beach texture: Sea salt spray, then a styling product on top.
If you’re still unsure, ask your barber at your next appointment. Your barber knows your hair better than any product label. Bring your current product to your next haircut, and we’ll let you know if it’s the right one for you.
How Much Product to Use
Most guys use too much product. This is the most common styling mistake.
Start with less product than you think you need. For short-to-medium hair, use about a dime-sized amount of clay, paste, or cream. Pomade is stronger, so use even less. Powder needs just a tiny bit. You can always add more, but it’s hard to take out extra.
Building the Habit
A fresh haircut is always easier to style than one that’s grown out. If you notice you’re using more and more product to control your hair, it’s probably time for a haircut, not a new product.
At The Bus Stop Barbershop, our barbers can help you figure out the best product routine during your appointment. If your current products aren’t working, bring them in, and we’ll discuss it together. You can book online or directly with any of our three barbers.
The right product and a fresh haircut make a huge difference compared to using the wrong product on overgrown hair. When you get both right, daily styling becomes easy.
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